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10 Jan 2003
Paul,
Greetings from the East. Feeling much better today. I am outfitting myself for the trip across this wonderland of cultural diversity. Heavy leather sandals, a serape and a heavy rain slicker to start. I have been questioning the locals discreetly as to where one might acquire, "Protection" but have yet to come across anything. I must admit that the mere act of exchanging Yen with the locals has put a spring in my step and I am feeling more at ease with every passing moment.
Pedro, that fine young boy, is out looking for a Sherpamute. I am told they are a hearty, thin boned dog that has an extraordinary ability to carry enormous weight upon its back. If there is one of these fine animals to be had in this little town, I should surely like to have it. I will be forced to push the beast hard, but we will be great friends. A man, a dog and a local boy just barely of shaving age to guide us. It is simply the way things should be. Rest assured, Paul, if I can get my hands on a Sherpamute, I will send you a picture.
The weather. Well, the heat is oppressing. The dirt streets have deep cracks like great wrinkles on the face of time. There is absolutely no moisture to be found and the local wells are dark and alkaline. I carry several Bota bags of thin wine to wet my palate during the day. I will survive on the grape as did my Roman ancestors and it will be a great adventure. I don't expect to see any rain during my stay here in Afghanistan and I have begun the process of hardening my body against thirst.
It is an interesting footnote that the sounds of far away fighting disappear with the rising sun. There is only the familiar sound of people speaking in an unknown language under the Middle Eastern Sun. The combatants that live on the horizon rest under the heat of the day. I envy those men, regardless of their flag, for they are living as men should live. Not afraid of the heat or the cold or the rain. Men fighting men for the sake of fighting one another. I must consciously put aside my desire to leave now. I must outfit.
It is with regret that I tell you I will spend one more night at the Hotel de Pollo. One more night to prepare. To harden myself before moving to the sound of the guns. I will not miss the hard, cold floors of our room. If Pedro and I are to live without any modern amenities, then we would rather have the open sky above our heads. That, the two of us agree upon without having say the words; without having to know one another's language. Tomorrow we move east.
P. Law
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